Baños is a small touristy town a 3.5-hour bus ride from the Southern bus terminal in Quito.
Spoiler Alert.
[Side Story: Yes, you are right. Your first grade Spanish has gotten you far. Baños does mean bathroom. But the town of Baños is technically named Baños de Agua Santa, or Baths of The Holy Water. Quote from some tourist website: "
Banos draws its name from the 5 sets of thermal baths fashioned into concrete pools."]
Okay back to the story. So Baños is a small touristy town a 3.5-hour bus ride from the Southern bus terminal in Quito. Which is a hectic/tiring 2 hour bus ride through Quito from my house. Which we didn't really realize when we hopped on the Ecovia on Friday. Rebecca, Emory, and I had quite the time of trying to figure out where the bus terminal actually was and how we were supposed to get there. But we made it, met up with Megan (another girl who was going with us), bought our tickets, and were on our way. The Southern part of Quito felt like an entirely different country, and it wasn't even in a different city. I don't really know how to explain why, but it did. And the bus terminal was just as nice/legit as most airports. Super clean and big with all sorts of buses going everywhere.
And bathrooms. That you have to pay to use. This is actually not an uncommon thing here, and in my opinion it seems quite intelligent. Women have to pay 15 cents to use the toilet, and after paying they receive a small section of toilet paper. There is no toilet paper in the actual restroom. Men pay 10 cents to use the urinal and 15 cents to use the toilet. How embarrassing would that be. "Oh you gave me 5 extra cents sir." "Nope, I didn't." "Oh but yes you did, here's your 5 cents." "No, really, I don't need change. Can I just have my toilet paper?" "Ohhhhhh... [pained silence where both parties know that the man has to poop] Yeah, here you go sir, sorry about that." Anyways, I think this is a good thing because a) it helps out the economy which is always good b) it's less messy if you don't have extra toilet paper to get all over the floor and such and c) much of the time, and especially in less developed areas, you can't flush toilet paper down the toilet, you have to throw it away in the waste basket, but if you only have a little square, it can't get clogged and such!
Anyways...
I really love the introspection that long bus rides through a new place bring. I like road-tripping in a car as well, but when you're in a bus your mind is completely free to wander and wonder because there's nothing you can do to make the trip go any faster or slower, your plans are completely up to the bus driver. We left in the early evening so as we were driving the sun set on many sleepy nameless towns. We picked up local families and travelelers as we wound our way through the mountains. The sun set and as the lights passed I listened to music and let calm wash over me.
You know how people always say that they wish their life had a soundtrack? While when you're on a bus in the middle of the Ecuadorian countryside and you're listening to your iPod, your life does have a soundtrack and it is a completely soothing and existencial experience.
Anyways...
We arrived in Baños in the early evening and basically wandered around until we figured out where our hostel was. The streets of the town at night are not like Quito. In Quito when you walk around at night, even in a group of people, you feel like you must constantly be on the lookout for suspicious behavior. Cops hanging around and doing who knows what, other drunken tourists, people who look like ladrones (robbers), perritos, etc. In Baños the main street/area was super well lit and there were tons of people everywhere. I had been told by a girl I met who had already been there that it would feel a lot safer than Qutio but I was struck by how different it really did feel. Part of the reason for this is that the town functions because of tourism. They are used to tourists and they aim to please them. If your town is rumored to be unsafe, the tourists don't want to come. At least that's my idea.
We checked into our hostel, set up camp, and went out to find food.
[Side Story: Ecuador has a change/money problem. Don't know if I mentioned this before or not. But yeah, they do. If you pay with anything that is not a coin or a one dollar bill they will inspect it to see if it is counterfeit. If you try to pay for something with a 20-dollar-bill the cashier will give you a look of death. Unless your total is like $18. If it's not, be prepared to feel guilty for the rest of the day. Coins are like gold. And I mean, okay Sacas (Sacajewaya is just too hard to say or spell so we always just abbreviate it) are gold-colored, but you get my point. If your change is $3.50 you will be getting 3 Sacas and a 50-cent-piece. You want to have coins. You need them to pay for bus rides and taxi rides and just about everything else. And don't even go thinking you can pay for anything with a credit card. Unless it's at the grocery store and you want to pay a lot of tax.]
So we ate at a restaurant on the main street. Then we decided to wander around and check out some of the stuff they had around. We of course ended up at a little store with Ecuadorian goods. They had tons of scarves and shirts and purses, etc. etc. It was super cool because we all ended up getting things we wanted and we got to talk to the store owners for awhile. Again, everyone in Baños is super nice. They were playing Avril Lavigne so we talked about that for awhile and other American music and all the tourists who come into their store, etc. etc. It was great and a fun way to practice our Spanish.
The next morning we woke up bright and early to rainy and dreary weather. Not exciting. We got a good Ecuadorian breakfast for $2 then headed off to find the tourist information center to figure out the day's activities. We wanted to go horseback riding, mountain bike, and take a nighttime tour of the volcano.
[Side Story: There's a volcano in Baños.
Tungurahua Volcano. It was too cloudy on Saturday to see it very well but on Sunday our taxi driver stopped on the way to the Aquarium and let us take some pics...my camera was dead of course...but still it was quite cool.
Photo.]
Anyways, we only really ended up doing the horseback riding. We had a super amazing guide who took us up some streets and then up this path up through some mountains and then on this super trecherous path and then to some waterfalls. I had never been horseback riding before, thus I was a bit scared. So I got an old, slow, nice horse [
Luchita] who the guide led down the trecherous part.
Pics or it didn't happen... The very small portion of time where I had my camera out while on the horse and then immediately regretted it.
We got some AMAZING food at Café Hood, an extremely well known and well recommended restaurant, and then decided to go to the zoo.
The zoo was just a short taxi ride away to the small town of San Martín, but apparently it was far enough away/small-town enough that gringas were an exciting sight to see. While inside the park, 2 different groups of Ecuadorians asked to take pictures with just me (the blond hair...) and then all of us. It made me feel famous. Anyways, this zoo literally cost us $2 a piece and we saw a jaguar, turtles from the Galapagos, pumas, condors, parrots that talked to us, other turtles, tonnnnnns of monkeys, and bears. WHAT? It was awesome. Here are some pics:
Mono 1 Mono 2 Tortuga Puma Chica Paisaje
That night we went out for dinner at this fancy little Italian place. And by fancy I mean it had a bottle of wine on the table and tableclothes and candles but it was still like $8 a person total. Then we went to the thermal baths that the town is famous for. We suited up and headed out to the baths that we heard were a mix of super crowded and cool. Well first of all they were right next to a waterfall, so that was pretty cool. And they were also packed full of people. The water is known to have therapeutic/curative powers and there are 3 pools (too cold, just perfect, too hot) and so people like to come to just hang out in the just perfect pool and get cured of everything. Very fun and relaxing. And the walk back to the hostel wasn't as cold as we thought it was going to be! Although we did seeing a drunken man peeing against a wall.
The next morning we went to the aquarium that was in the same town/across the street from the zoo we were at the day before. After we ate some great pancakes with fresh fruit on them first of course. At first the aquarium was just kind of strange. All sorts of fish that creeped me out and literally FIFTEEN boa constricters that we're thinking they just went out to the jungle and caught. But then we discovered the exotic birds portion of the exhibit.
Flamencos &
Natalie Portman &
Ostriches.
Heading back home on the bus to the South terminal was great. The rest of it not so much, although it did go quite more smoothly than the way there. :)
Anyways, I think that's all I have to say about Baños. Very good weekend.
Today I worked on a paper that's due tomorrow while sitting next to the school's lagoon in the sun and ate a blackberry popscicle. It was quite heavenly. Minus the paper-writing part. But I wrote it! It's done! And it's not even due until 14 hours from now. Now that's studiousness.
Also, MSU has a snow day for tomorrow already. WHAT? How am I not there for this epic-ness? Being away has been very much a learning experience. About Ecuador and life and Spanish and culture, etc. etc. but also a lot about myself. Introspective post to come. :)
It feels like I have an exorbitant amount of time to spend here at the same time that it feels like I'm already running out of time. Strange, no?
Anyways, I love you all. At least I assume I do because if you're reading my blog you probably like me a little tiny bit and if you're willing to do that then I'm pretty sure I love you. :)
-EM